Over the past decade, fashion brands have started to consider inclusivity in the products they sell in a way that wasn’t happening before, but the founders of the British footwear label Sante + Wade believe shoe retailers are lagging behind.

Entrepreneurs Shola Asante and Agnès Cushnie say that women with wide feet are still scrambling to find shoes that are stylish, high quality and most importantly comfortable. It was this realisation alongside their own personal experiences that encouraged Shola and Agnès to start Sante + Wade back in 2019.

“I found myself wondering why someone who has wide feet, wants to buy beautiful stuff and can afford to pay for it, still struggles to find things that fit,” says Shola. Their company offers a variety of footwear in sizes ranging from 38/5 to 46/11.5 in either standard or wide fit, while most in England stop at a size 9 and only offer standard options.

Before the birth of Sante + Wade, Shola was a broadcast journalist who had taken a couple of years out to have children. She decided on a career change when she was ready to return to work. “I didn't want to go back into broadcasting, I wanted to do something that felt meaningful,” she says. “I knew nothing about shoes other than the fact I loved them.” So, she enrolled into a three month footwear design and development course in Singapore, where she was living at the time, to get started. “It was a partnership with one of the biggest footwear design and pattern making schools in Milan,” she adds. Along the way, she joined forces with her longtime friend Agnès, who has a decade of expertise as a market analyst as well as fashion industry experience including her own swimwear line.

What gave you the idea for your company?

Shola Asante: It was born out of frustration. I remember having two weddings to go to. I had fabulous outfits for each one, but I couldn't find shoes to match so I bought a pair of heels from Prada. I was in the shop and it was a real Cinderella stepsister moment; I had to wedge my foot into the shoes. Looking back I really shouldn’t have bought it, it was incredibly uncomfortable and, when I got home, I realised I couldn’t wear it. I ended up buying something for 20 pounds instead.

What did you find challenging about developing a shoe company?

Shola: Starting any creative endeavour brings its own challenges. It's wonderful at the beginning because you have this great idea and you believe in it. We also did research and focus groups so we knew that there was definitely a market for our product. But, footwear is also a particularly hard category of product in fashion retail. You have to hold a lot more stock because of the different shoe sizes which can add a certain amount of financial pressure. It means we really have to think very carefully about what we're making, who we're making it for and how much we want to produce.

Part of the reason so many small businesses fail isn’t just because of overspending though. It’s also as a result of not fully understanding their customer and the field they're operating in. For me, part of the difficulty is learning fast enough to be able to make appropriate decisions at the right time.

You knew each other before you started the company. Tell me about your friendship before starting Sante + Wade and how it developed while running it.

Agnès: Every friendship is unique and Shola is like a sister to me. We met over a decade ago and clicked instantly. We have also shared many experiences together on our journey as women such as motherhood and marriage. Our business continues that journey on a different level.

It’s really difficult to tell what it will be like going into business with someone that is so close to you and a lot of people warn against it. I went into it as a business person rather than thinking ‘oh but it’s Shola’, but what’s good is that, because we know each other well, we don’t have to second guess each other's intentions. If we clash over an issue or have different opinions, we know that it's about that and there is no other agenda. It gives us the freedom to be completely honest with each other when we talk about the business or how we feel.

Shola: We are like family to each other which means there is implicit trust. Agnès made a good point about not having to question the other person’s intentions. It's really important because we have different temperaments and our approach to problems can conflict which is natural. With someone you don’t know well disagreements can be uncomfortable, but with a close friend you can be certain that you will figure it out. We both really want this to succeed, but I would say that our friendship is even more important and we would never want to do anything that would threaten that.

Tell me about your brand and what it represents.

Agnès: It is a brand for women who have been ignored by the mainstream market. Inclusivity is now at the forefront of discussions in the fashion industry. It's not yet where it's meant to be, but it's definitely a subject that has been accepted. We really wanted to be a brand that provides inclusive options for all types of occasions. The development process was so rigorous and long because we decided to tackle every category - boots, sneakers, high heels, mid heels, flats. It means that once we have a customer, she can come back to us for most of her needs.

How have you felt about the reception of your shoes so far?

Agnès: We have had a really positive reception from industry insiders and from the press, but the greatest joy I get is from customer feedback. When people get in touch with us, most of the time it’s because they really appreciate what we’re doing. Even though we started as a business providing a niche product, clearly there is a need and it's nice to stand out for that.

Where do you see the company heading?

Shola: The last few years have been challenging because of COVID, but things have picked up. We really want to be a household name so we're constantly on the lookout for more distributors, whether that's online marketplaces or physical stores. Our focus is to be synonymous with quality products that are truly inclusive.